Chapter 103 – 21/04/2016

103-05So I’ve been putting a few photos here and there up on our faceplant page of some of my locos as I get around to weathering them. Each time I do, some of you ask for a “tutorial” on how I did it. So in a similar vein to an alcoholic hop scotch teacher in a mine field, let’s see how this goes…

103-06For this “tutorial” I decided to weather 2414. The 2400 class were the last Clyde 90 tonners to retain their high noses. They were also the last of the non 60 tonne locos to keep the blue livery. As a result they got a bit grotty. 2414 ended up getting a yellow air conditioner on the nose.

103-01 (2)The first step was to mute the colours of the loco to help them get that faded look to them. For this I used a coat of light grey through the airbrush. When doing this, remember, you’re not trying to paint the model. Rather just give it a VERY light misting. So whether you’re using a single action or double action air brush, turn the paint nozzle down until there is almost no paint coming out. When it’s done, you should have a nice faded looking loco.

103-02It was at this point that I painted the yellow air conditioner… Well I actually managed to con Jade into doing it, as she has a steadier hand than I with a paintbrush. Around this time we fitted the sound unit to the loco, unfortunately in the process one of us managed to get a fingerprint on either side of the fuel tank. Which is what got me thinking about doing this chapter as well. I mean, we’ve ALL got at least one model with a wayward fingerprint that annoys us to death.

103-07But that’s okay, we’ll cover it. The next step was to gather up the bits needed to do the weathering… I used Kaiser Colour “eggshell” acrylic paint along with Mont Marte “Silver Series” burnt sienna acrylic paint. Obviously the “Silver Series” is much preferred over other types of paint because it was $2.50. I also used “Grimy Black” and “Dark Rust” weathering powders from AIM Products (yes I know we make them too but these were on the desk when I started) and three paint brushes.

103-10The next step was to start dry brushing the model with the Eggshell colour. If you’re unfamiliar with dry brushing, it’s really simple. Just squirt some paint onto a surface and then dip the brush in it (as you normally would) then wipe almost all the paint off onto a piece of toilet paper or paper towel or your wife’s favourite gown or table cloth (for those of you that are into extreme sports). Do this until there is essentially no paint left on the brush. Remember, it’s easy to add more paint but diabolically painful to remove too much paint. The first thing I did was to paint out a large portion of the logo. I then moved onto the cab roof and hood sides. This will give us the selectively faded look that QR locos got in patches. These were usually in the middle of small panels or around the edges of larger ones.

103-08Once this was done, I repeated the process with the Burnt Sienna paint. Again, remember you can always add more later so go a little at a time. For colour, I added small amounts to the roof by gently drawing the brush over the cab roof (start from the centre and draw it towards the edge). The paint will highlight any edges and corners which is all we really want. I also stippled (think lightly stabbing without the charges) the centre of the “eggshell” patches. This gives the effect of a worn patch of paint where rust has started showing through. Please note, the finger print is still REALLY obvious, but we’re getting there.

103-12As you go along with this process, you’ll have areas where the brush strokes are more pronounced than you’d like. The easiest way to remedy this is by licking the tip of your finger and just gently rubbing the area with the brush marks. You won’t get rid of them all but you will blend them.

103-11Once all of this was done, I started applying the powders. The only placeĀ  I used the rust coloured powder was along the walk way in the corners where it meets the vertical surfaces of the cab, hood and nose. The black powders were applied lightly to the exhaust stack (as can be seen above) over the grills (TINY amounts go a long way here) and along the walkway.

103-012When applying the powders to the walkway, they are really at their thickest around the fuel filler and feathering out from there. Just add a small amount on either side of the filler and draw the brush (with almost no pressure)to either side of it. This will highlight the tread plate details as well. Once this is done, I repeated the process with the sides of the fuel tank. This is also where the fingerprint of death started to be blended properly.

103-013The last step was to spray a coat of matt clear finish over the entire model. This will seal the powders in and protect them from fingers. For those of you that read this and think “hmm that’s lovely but I just don’t have the patience” (my most hated phrase), this entire process took around 20 minutes! I’ve spent longer searching for the antidote for Jade’s “lovely home cooked meals”.

As an addition to this model, you could use an air brush to lightly apply some mud colours to the bottom of the running gear but I chose not too… Yet… maybe… We shall see how we go.

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